HEATHER SMITH
A Lone Surfer

Bells Beach during pro competition practice. I was photographing friends when this young surfer waited politely for me to finish before heading down to the water. When I looked down, there was this perfect moment unfolding.

That solitary walk with the board, footprints dividing wave chaos from sand stillness. My camera was packed away, so I grabbed my phone - the best camera is the one you have in your hand.

I don't know what it's like heading into competition as a surfer, but that moment of gathering your thoughts before doing something that matters feels pretty universal.

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